TAMPA — Most Americans are only familiar with foods from two or three Asian countries, say the owners of Royal Palace Thai. Now they say it’s time to discover Philippine, Korean, Japanese, Indian, Vietnamese, Mandarin and other Asian cuisines.
Randall Knowles, who runs the S Howard Avenue restaurant with his wife, Tapanee Damrongwatanasuk, are introducing a new small-plates menu called SoHo Hawkers.
“In 16 years of traveling to Thailand, we often ate Asian street food,” Knowles said. “Cooked in big woks by ‘hawkers,’ people who hawk street treats.”
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Hong Kong noodle soup, Bahn Mi sliders and Thai flatbread made with peanut sauce instead of red sauce were instant hits. Wings are a specialty: five for $5, with 10 sauces, such as green jalapeno and Bangkok Is Burning. Japanese teriyaki bowls come with a choice of chicken, shrimp or mixed vegetables. Definitely save room for mango creme brulee and Indian mango ice cream desserts.
A new bartender handcrafts cocktails to sip on the Deck811 drink area. During happy hour, from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m., IPA goes for $2.
Royal Palace Thai Restaurant and SoHo Hawkers, 811 S Howard Ave., is open 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Visit royal palacethai.com or call (813) 258-5893.
Jet City wakes up Seminole Heights
Coffee entrepreneur Jessica Glover expanded into Seminole Heights this month, opening Jet City Espresso on N Florida Avenue, north of Hillsborough Avenue. Her Hyde Park coffee bar on Edison Avenue remains open daily.
Neighbors quickly swarmed to the cozy bungalow for coffee, espresso, chai latte and her signature Cafe Borgia, a honey- and orange-infused latte. They also liked the free Wi-Fi and ample parking.
Glover’s baked goods include many paleo and gluten-free choices.
“Everything as healthy and organic as possible,” Glover said.
Here’s an example: Jet City Salad, $12, mixes greens and kale, slow-cooked apricot chicken, black rice, cauliflower mash, toasted pumpkin seeds and thick shavings of asiago. Two sandwich selections are smoked Gouda portobello and smoked whitefish on a croissant with all fixings, both $9. For dessert, try gluten-free chocolate pumpkin cake or paleo lava chocolate cake.
There’s outdoor seating on the front porch and coming soon, a side deck. A beer and wine license application is in the works.
Jet City Seminole Heights, 5803 N Florida Ave., is open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekends. Visit jetcityespresso.com or call (813) 541-5048.
Olive Garden grows on West Shore Boulevard
The West Shore district welcomed Olive Garden on Feb. 3, near the entrance to International Plaza. General manager Bert Corbett transferred from the Tampa Palms location to run the 300-seat restaurant.
In addition to favorite Italian entrees, diners will find lighter fare and small-plate selections such as Parmesan roasted asparagus and crispy risotto bites starting at $4.
A new Italiano burger comes topped with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella cheese, arugula and marinated tomatoes.
Olive Garden, 1802 N West Shore Blvd., is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call (813) 286-6564.
Do you know something that should be Everybody’s Business? Call (813) 226-3332 or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Food trucks are on site at San Clemente High every Wednesday evening from 5-8. Here
are the trucks this week:
A Bite Truck: Fusion dishes like bison chili, ragout of lamb
and Modelo-steamed mussels characterize this Orange County-based food truck.
Truck: It may not surprise you that this truck offers a
variety of salsas. The truck caters to those with mild chile taste to
the “extreme blow your head off and burn ya twice” chile lovers. You can
try the salsa on tacos, burritos and nachos.
The Flip Truck: A rotating menu of
healthy sliders (you know—tiny hamburgers). Some choices have included the
vegetarian Zeenee Panini (mozzarella, tomato, pesto and balsamic
aioli on mini grilled sourdough) and the Greek God (beef, tzatziki sauce, red
onion and aioli on a brioche roll).
Me So Hungry: This sliders/burgers/fries
truck brings surprising flavors together, like the Meso Ramen burger (with a hard-boiled egg and fried ramen in place of a
–Peter Schelden contributed to this report.
Alderman Jennifer Florida spilled the beans on Twitter last Friday: food truck Lulu’s Local Eatery, a.k.a. the food truck with a garden on its roof, will open a bricks-and-mortar location at 3201 South Grand Boulevard in Tower Grove South.
Lauren Loomis, who owns and operates Lulu’s with husband Robbie Tucker, says the location along the bustling South Grand corridor was the perfect fit for the restaurant.
“We moved here from Chicago to live in south city,” she says. “We love south city. We wanted to stay there. It’s in close proximity to a lot of our events. Logistically, it’s easy. The demographic that lives there is exactly our demographic.”
The new restaurant will feature the same set menu as the food truck, which features local, organic ingredients whenever possible. The format will be fast-casual.
Loomis says the restaurant will sit about 40 diners inside and, weather permitting, another 30 or so on its patio. She and Tucker have targeted early May for the opening.
Lulu’s Local Eatery will take over the space formerly occupied by Natty’s Pizza. Sauce reports that Natty’s is relocating to 3182 Morganford Road, where it will join forces with the restaurant already there, Plaza Cafe Grill.
Got a hankering for some Mexican food? Today’s your lucky day.
If you head to Business Center Drive in Reston today, you’ll find the Guapo’s Food Truck. The food truck is making its maiden voyage into Reston today after debuting Tuesday in Tyson’s.
“It was a successful day, we were there for two-and-a-half hours,” Caitlin Turner, a Guapo’s manager, said Wednesday morning.
The Guapo’s Food Truck will be in Reston Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. (they’ll stay longer if people are still ordering at 2 p.m.) at Business Center Drive.
On the menu Wednesday: Burritos, burrito bowls, tacos and quesadillas, each available in chicken, steak, vegetarian and carnitas (pork), as well as a few other menu items. Soft drinks and water will also be for sale. Guapo’s Food Truck takes cash and credit cards.
If you try Guapo’s and like it, be sure to start following them on Twitter to find out when they’ll be back in Reston: @GuaposFoodTruck
Seth Peterson likes to play with his food. Well, it’s more like experimenting. PBJs made with powdered peanut butter and liquid-filled jelly balls; nutella powder paired with fresh apple bananas and meat caramel: concentrated pork stock blended with caramelized sugar and cream.
With a B.S. in biology, a job at Kailani Farms in Kilauea and a food loving heart, it seems natural that Peterson would serve molecular gastronomy. Also known as science forward food, the discipline attracts inquisitive chefs who take traditional tastes and textures and flip them on their head.
“I made a liquid gingersnap cookie that was solid on the outside and gave it to my friends on the farm,” Peterson said. “They loved it! This kind of food is a trippy thing for your head.”
He’s wearing a blue T-shirt with the molecular structure for umami, a name for savory, which is one of five basic tastes. Under the diagram reads, “OOH-Mami. I want more.”
After reading blogs and cookbooks by industry leaders, Peterson honed his skills while cooking multi-course dinners for large groups of friends. After two years, he and his wife Paulette opened a food trailer called Kickshaws, which means a delicious bite of food.
Although Kickshaws does not serve over-the-top molecular gastronomy, Peterson uses scientific techniques for his sandwich-based menu. And it’s not complicated. For his 100 percent Awesome Burger ($12), salt, chuck short-rib, sirloin and bacon are put through a meat grinder. As it’s extruded, Peterson preserves its horizontal, cylindrical shape. When disks are cut into patties, the strands are cut short, making the burger exceedingly tender.
A pineapple, black pepper, onion marmalade is piled on top, along with gooey Gouda cheese, mayonnaise, arugula and tomato, which are served on a Deli Bread Connection torta roll.
Typically, pork belly is cured and made into bacon, but in Peterson’s PBAT ($12) it’s cooked for six hours, sous vide. The technique involves cooking food in vacuum-sealed pouches submerged in a water bath that is held at a precise temperature. Once the pork belly is meltingly tender, Peterson crisps it on the grill. Peppery arugula, juicy tomato, pickled mustard seeds and applewood smoked mayonnaise conspire to create an explosion of umami-based flavor —something Peterson strives for in every dish.
Vegans will appreciate the spicy Tempeh Banh Mi ($10). Peterson’s spin on the Vietnamese sandwich includes tempeh (fermented soybeans) that’s marinated in yellow curry overnight and seared on the grill. It’s topped with coconut Sriracha mayonnaise and smoked soy sauce gel, both of which Peterson makes in his “lab.” Pickled carrots, cilantro oil and cucumber make it the most flavorful vegan sandwich I’ve ever had.
On any given day, the first 20 people receive an amuse-bouche. The bite-sized gift is a hard riff on molecular gastronomy and designed to whet your appetite. A Dueling Tip Jar enables customers to vote for their favorite specials. Recently, Spam Larb (Sriracha pickled pineapple, cilantro, mint and ground spam served in a lettuce cup) beat Apple Cheddar Bacon Risotto and the Umami Bomb Grilled Cheese.
Recently, Kickshaws featured a Sour Sampler highlighting delightful miracle berries, which are known for taking the sour out of any food and making it sweet. The playful dish was served with segmented lemons, limes, grapefruit and sour cream with a balsamic vinegar drizzle.
Kickshaws is at the Small Boat Harbor in Port Allen, and every Friday during Hanapepe Art Night. The best way to find out about specials and locations is to like them on Facebook. If you’re lucky, you’ll be one of 20 people who get an amuse-bouche during Truck Stop Thursday at the Kauai Beer Company on March 6 at 5:30 p.m. Kickshaws, 651-6750, Small Boat Harbor, Port Allen, Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
• Marta Lane is a Kauai-based food writer. For more information, visit TastingKauai.com.
Food Cart of the Year: Burrasca
113 SE 28th Ave., burrascapdx.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday, lunch Sunday. Cash only.
Our 2014 Food Cart of the Year doesn’t really feel like a
cart so much as a fine open-air restaurant—or maybe a home windowsill
one might as well be stealing from. The Tuscan fare at Burrasca offers
both comfort and surprise: Pillowy housemade ravioli filled with potato
that’s cloudlike in its softness, made rich by hearty duck ragu ($9); a
pungently earthy pepper-beef peposo soaked in acid-forward wine and
tomato and tempered with soothing polenta ($8); the herby prickle of bay
leaf and juniper in a slow-cooked boar ragu.
Chef-owner Paolo Calamai’s four-item menu changes
seasonally, but the one constant so far has been his inzimino, a simple
peasant dish of wine-soaked squid and spinach that actually stuns the
senses. It’s acidic, umami-packed, salty, spicy, maybe a bit slimy, and
almost embarrassingly addictive. You go to the window, pay your $8 in
cash and get your fix.
“Inzimino comes probably from the north of Africa,”
Calamai says. “The dish itself is really simple, but it requires a lot
of simmering. It’s one of the very few seafood dishes that can really
relate back to the history of Florence.”
Calamai moved here from Florence last August with his wife
and son, and says he that what he misses is the ubiquity of good food.
“The easy reach of a good piece of cheese,” he says. “A good piece of
bread. Not necessarily at the restaurant, but at a small market, at a
But at Calamai’s lattice-fenced cart in perhaps the best
micro-pod in town, he’s busy recreating the flavors of home. “There’s
sausage I want to make,” he says. “I haven’t found here the type I like
best. Sausage and beans, tomato and sage. It is a traditional dish of
Florence. Kale gnocchi is something that my grandmother used to do in
meat sauce. Fresh tagliatelle in meat sauce. Gnocchi in butter sage
He says he intends to open a restaurant when he has the
money, but in one sense he already has one: You order your food and then
wander over to pick up your beer from the Captured by Porches brewery
cart nearby, meanwhile warming yourself in a chair by the little
parking-lot fire. And as your food is done, it finds you toasty as if at
a backyard fire pit. When Portland’s food-cart renaissance was
breathlessly announced years ago, this is perhaps what we hoped it would
“What a wonderful thing that Portland has, the food
carts,” Calamai says. “We thought it would be very slow in winter. But
people keep coming.” MATTHEW KORFHAGE.
2. Tiffin Asha
836 N Beech St., 936-7663, tiffinasha.com. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Saturday.
The supple-yet-crunchy crepe around Tiffin Asha’s Hot Chick
seems simple enough. You could be excused for biting right past the
thin, tangy layer of yellow-gold dough of rice and lentil and getting
hung up instead on lightly fried chicken drizzled with cardamom-infused
honey, pickled greens or bright yogurty cheese sauce.
But don’t ignore the shell—that dosa comes only after two
days of labor, using three different rices and several types of lentils.
It proofs overnight with ambient yeast, developing layers of flavor and
The Tiffin Asha cart, now on a North Mississippi Avenue
corner, opened last May, but those dosas are 10 years in the making.
They’re just one of the South Indian recipes chef-owner Elizabeth
Golay—who previously worked at restaurants in Seattle, San Francisco and
Boston—started exploring after she met her now-wife, who is from the
state of Andhra Pradesh. The menu also includes vada holes (small savory
doughnuts, five for $5), and idli (fermented lentil and rice cakes, two
for $5). But the dosas are the cart’s trump card.
“I use very traditional methods. Some Indian
restaurants—if they’re not specifically South Indian—it’s a very
time-consuming process, so they do flour instead of whole grains,” Golat
says. “They might even use mixes because it takes a lot of time and a
lot of space.”
The fried chicken is Golay’s inspired addition.
Traditional dosas are often vegetarian, and, even when not, don’t
feature fried chicken. But it’s hard to argue with the Hot Chick. “That
was my idea, and I spent some time getting it right,” she says. “I
wanted to do some things the traditional way, but also put my own spin
on South Indian food.”
So enjoy that new-fangled honey-drizzled chicken—after pausing to savor that incredible dosa. MARTIN CIZMAR.
3. Love Belizean
Southwest 6th Avenue and Columbia Street, 421-5599. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
People in Belize actually distinguish between dishes called
“beans and rice” and “rice with beans.” Both are best when soaked with a
generous helping of the nation’s beloved local hot sauce, Marie
Sharp’s. Add a few pieces of spicy chicken roasted until it’s loose on
the bone and the color of coffee, and you’ve got Belize’s national meal.
It’s simple fare, and perfect fodder for a Portland food
cart. Tiffany Love—who’s originally from Hawaii but has lived more than a
decade in Portland—knew this from the moment she tasted Belizean food
on her honeymoon. A year after opening, her cart now moves “70 pieces of
chicken, eight or nine pounds of tri-tip and a big pot of beans” every
And it’s also impressed a few notable Belizeans.
“When you type in ‘Belize’ and ‘Portland,’ I come up,”
Love says. “So, in July, when Belize played the U.S. in the soccer
tournament in Portland, I had a lot of the Belizean team contact me
before they came to Portland and ask where to stay, where to eat, how
expensive it is, what the weather’s like.”
And they liked Love’s cart: “I knew I had it nailed when they told me the food is really good.”
Love attributes the success to happy customers—and the
bright line of Marie Sharp’s in the cart’s window. “When we opened,
people didn’t even know what Belizean cuisine was,” she says. “A few
people were risky and were like, ‘I’ll try it,’ and it spread through
word of mouth.”
“Plus,” she says, “the hot sauces attract people. We’ve
got nine varieties of Marie Sharp’s in the window now, from sweet to
prickly pear to original to all the way up to Beware, which is five-star
hot—comatose quality.” MARTIN CIZMAR.
4. Road Runner Barbecue
Southeast 52nd Avenue and Foster Road, 310-2837. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
When Road Runner Barbecue rolled into the Carts on Foster
pod in late 2012, its Chief Wiggum portrait and bright red exterior made
it look from afar like either a coffee or a doughnut joint. But the
telltale mesquite smoke told a different story. Barbecue in Portland can
be a dubious prospect, but one bite of Texas transplant Jim Hart’s
tremendous brisket will make you a true believer.
This is some of PDX’s best barbecue, cut with love by a
retired meat carver and smoked for at least 12 hours before being served
as tenderly charred slices or chopped up on a bun with its candied fat
glistening. Hart serves his meats dry so you can behold them in all
their glory before hitting them with a sweetly hot homemade tomato
sauce. The pork butt and chicken also stand out, but it’s really hard to
get past that brisket, especially when it’s paired with the
delightfully creamy, kind of Velveeta-y mac ’n’ cheese that resets your
taste buds while offering its own distinct comforts.
For the lucky bastards who knew about it for a while, Road
Runner is a food group all its own. And on behalf of the late
bloomers…sorry about the line. We’ll save you a charred end. AP KRYZA.
5. Maine Street Lobster Co.
8145 SE 82nd Ave., 770-480-3437, mainestreetlobstercompany.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday, Lunch Sunday.
Last spring, David Beavers was hiking the 2,000-mile
Appalachian Trail from his home state of Georgia to Maine, and around a
campfire one night everyone grabbed the proverbial conch and said how
they thought the hike would make them a better person.
“I’m going to Maine,” Beavers told them, “for a lobster roll.”
Well, turned out he had to make that lobster roll himself,
because he got injured on the trail. He’s now in Oregon’s Portland
instead, slinging beautifully heaped-up, hot-buttered lobster and
herb-mayo lobster sandwiches ($14), not to mention po’boys ($10-14), at
the Maine Street Lobster Co. cart he now shares with partner Cathy
Evenson at the Cartlandia pod on Southeast 82nd Avenue. The pair have
lobster flown in from Maine two or three times a week.
Beavers met Evenson in Florida—where he was laying up with
friends after his injury—and the pair hit it off. As it so happens,
Beavers already owned a cart here that he rented out to other food
businesses. When a tenant handed back the keys, he called Evenson with a
proposal: Let’s start a lobster cart in Portland.
“Two days later,” Evenson says, “we were packed up and
moving across the country. Three weeks from the decision, we were open
for business.” The logo for the cart, Evenson says, was based on pottery
made by her sister, whom she lost to breast cancer last year.
Though Evenson says she’s always been both skilled and
fearless in the kitchen, it was her first time in the food business.
Both she and Beavers had worked in large-scale construction and
development projects, whether schools or retail.
“We’ve built big things,” she says. “After that, a lobster roll is easy.” MATTHEW KORFHAGE.
Menlo Park diners will have 10 new choices for eating out tonight (Feb. 19), as Off the Grid holds its first food truck event at the Caltrain station.
The expected vendors are El Sur (Argentine-style empanadas); Me So Hungry (sliders, burgers, fries); Gold Rush Eatery (burgers, barbecue); Sam’s ChowderMobile (seafood); The Chairman Truck (Taiwanese baos); The Boneyard (barbecue); Hiyaaa (Asian-fusion sandwiches); The Waffle Roost (chicken and waffles with Southern-style sides); Blendid (organic milkshakes); and Kara’s Cupcakes.
The event runs from 5 to 8 p.m. at the Caltrain parking lot near the intersection of Merrill Street and Ravenswood Avenue. Signs will ban parking within that section of the lot from 3:30 to 10 p.m. on Wednesdays.
Off the Grid plans to host the food trucks every Wednesday night, with live music, chairs and a portable toilet provided.
What’s wonderful about Mexico is that some of the greatest stuff isn’t expensive. Take street food. And there’s one food cart that lives up to its fabulous reputation.
I mean the La Guerrerense seafood cart in the seaside town of Ensenada in Baja California. If you are ever in the area, you must go. The cart has been an institution since 1960.
I was there on Saturday, and I had the freshest, best seafood of anywhere I’ve been outside a sushi restaurant next to the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo.
Mind you, the Guerrerense is nothing special to look out – just a simple street cart on the corner of First and Alameda. The giveaway is the crowd of people crowded outside. It’s drawn a lot of attention. TV food show host and chef Anthony Bourdain has been there (here’s a YouTube clip of a segment of the show), and so has celebrity chef Rick Bayless (here’s a clip of his visit). They both rave about the place.
I’d heard about it from colleagues who visit Baja a lot. So when I had to pop down there from Tijuana for an unrelated story, I went with hunger pangs. I was not disappointed. I started with tostadas – a fish one, then a crab salad one. I couldn’t stop there. So I had a shrimp one and a fish pate one. I tried one with a mango salsa and another with a peanut sauce. Yumm!
That was about $5.50 worth of food. But I was still hungry. So I had what looked like the piece de resistance – a campechano cocktail. This is a large mixed seafood cebiche. As best as I could tell, it contained fresh octopus, scallops, sea snails, clams, shrimp, sea urchins, a mussel or two and a couple of unrecognizable things. All in brine, a sprinkle of salt, slices of avocada on top, then bathed in the juice of fresh lime. It tasted like a reduction of all the best coming out of the Pacific Ocean, two blocks away.
I went to heaven. And in the future, I will drive far out of my way to go back. You don’t get seafood fresher than at La Guerrerense unless you are on the high seas with a fishing pole in your hand.
Members of the Duke University Student Dining Advisory Committee sampled options from Mama Duke’s food truck during their committee meeting Monday night.
Mama Duke’s owners—father-and-son team Michael and Mike Alexakis—served up signature Mediterranean cuisine with a distinct southern twist. Falafel, coconut curry and chicken masala were among the options that DUSDAC members sampled. The group’s responses to both the flavor of food and efficiency of service were positive.
“They had a big menu tonight and they got the food out immediately,” said senior Chris Taylor, co-chair of DUSDAC . “It seemed like really fast service compared to every other truck we’ve had”
Although Mama Duke’s has found success catering corporate offices, nightclubs and private events, Michael and Mike said they are looking to expand their client base to include Duke students. They highlighted Mama Duke’s flexible menu options when speaking about their truck.
“We can go any direction that you’d like,” Michael said. “Steak, shrimp, fresh seafood—we can do it all to order.”
The father-son duo is also willing to adjust dishes to fit student’s dietary needs.
“We do take special requests and we make things to order right on the spot,” Mike added.
Among the truck’s more popular items are curry and chicken tikka, both of which are gluten free.
DUSDAC is in the process of sampling various food trucks to decide which vendors to ultimately bring to campus on select weeknights. They will taste Durham pizza truck, Pie Pushers, during next week’s meeting.
Following the food truck tasting, the group discussed future plans to send out a survey that will gauge general perception of food options on campus. The survey will ask students what their favorite eateries are, where they would like to see more variety in dining and what dietary restrictions they may have.
Although DUSDAC is eager to hear about students’ dining preferences, Taylor emphasized that there will be no new restaurants added to the Duke line-up before the West Union construction is complete.
“There is nowhere else to add a restaurant on campus. I don’t want people to think we’re going to tear down the Chapel to make room,” joked Taylor.
A food cart serving authentic Spanish cuisine will join the lineup of vendors at Mark’s Carts outdoor food courtyard this spring, Concentrate Media reports.
Xavi Vitta plans to open Simply Spanish, serving simple Spanish foods made with fresh ingredients. He envisions customers sharing a few tapas during a meal, the report says.
Located off West Washington and South Ashley streets behind Mark Hodesh’s Downtown Home Garden store, Mark’s Carts is a collection of outdoor food carts. The courtyard is typically open April through October.
A similar outdoor food courtyard opened in December on South University Avenue, when the co-owner of two food carts left Mark’s Carts to launch a courtyard model that could operate during the winter.
The Mark’s Carts website says it is seeking proposals for food carts for the 2014 season. The food vendors listed on the website are: El Manantial, A2 Pizza Pi, San Street, Hut-k Chaats and Darcy’s Cart.
Lizzy Alfs is a business reporter for The Ann Arbor News. Reach her at 734-623-2584, email her email@example.com or follow her on Twitter.
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