Jun 27, 2012

Kim Rivers

Food trucks ready to roll into The Rock

SALEM — For Jamie Ruel, it all started with apple crisp.

“I was not an apple crisp person,” recalled Ruel. She considered the traditional New England dessert a lesser version of apple pie, and not really worth the time.

But Ruel was forced to reconsider that position one night after her mother-in-law served apple crisp at a family dinner.

“When I tasted her recipe I couldn’t believe it,” said Ruel who went from apple crisp critic to advocate in a matter of bites. Rule’s conversion was so complete that she and her husband, Chris, started kicking around ideas about how to introduce the Ruel apple crisp recipe to the world.

But the couple didn’t have a lot of time. He had a real estate business, she had a career in education and they both became very busy with a new daughter, Bailey. Apple crisp was sidelined for a few years, but it came roaring back after the Ruels had a conversation with a new friend who ran a fairground trailer business. The Ruels realized they could feature the dessert as part of a moveable feast served from a food truck they decided to call Miss Bailey’s All American Comfort Foods.

The Ruels now make the rounds at festivals, fairs and other big events and serve up high-end mac and cheese, home-made pot pies, molten-lava cake and their award-winning apple crisp.

“It’s fun, but it’s our blood, sweat and tears,” said Ruel. “But it lets us do something we are both passionate about.”

Miss Bailey’s is part of the new wave of food trucks that have been rolling through the Northeast cooking everything from South Asian stir fry to authentic Texas barbecue. On Saturday, the Ruels will join a fleet of about 25 food trucks that will pull into Rockingham Park for the Food Truck Festival of New Hampshire.

“It’s gourmet food on wheels,” said Anne-Marie Aigner, who organized the festival to showcase the food truck phenomenon. Aigner said the new generation of food trucks popped up first on the West Coast and migrated east. And while such trucks are familiar sights in major cities, they’re not often spotted in the suburbs, and they rarely travel in packs.

Aigner said bringing the trucks all together as a festival event gives people a taste of a new dining-out trend. It also lets people sample different menus that offer a wide range of foods such as artisan grilled cheeses, Jamaican jerk chicken, fresh falafel ,lobster bisque, wood-oven baked pizzas, savory and sweet crepes, vegetarian pockets, salads and rice bowls and all types of specialty ice creams and sweets.

Aigner figures the food truck trend has caught on because it offers customers a dining experience that’s easy and affordable.

Ruel said the fact that food trucks have been featured on the Food Network has also been a help.

“It’s a novelty,” said Ruel. “And it’s different from the food you find on canteen trucks. We serve really honest to goodness quality food.”

As for the cooks, Aigner said people have embraced the food-truck craze for different reasons. For well-known and well-established restaurants, a food truck is often about mobile marketing.

But for others who long to get into the restaurant business but don’t have the hundreds of thousands of dollars needed to open a brick-and-mortar storefront, or the nerves of steel needed to jump into an industry with a 90 percent failure rate, a food truck can be an alternative entry point.

Or in some cases, a re-entry point.

Danbury residents Alex and Bob Graf had eight years invested in their inn and German bistro when the tough economy forced them out of business. But the Grafs got back up again and launched Schnitzels Giggles, a food truck that specializes in sauerkraut, sptzle, wiener schnitzel sandwiches, German potato salad and homemade bratwurst that comes either on a roll or on a stick.

“The biggest different between a food truck and a regular restaurant is with a structure: If you have a location that isn’t working, you’re stuck,” said Alex Graf.

The Grafs decided to make the most of their new mobility, and since last winter, they’ve been driving Schnitzels Giggles along a route of fairs and festivals down South. And while being on the road cooking and serving special dishes like Hungarian goulash, potato and cheese pierogies, deep-fried stuffed pretzels and apple streusel has its challenges, being food gypsies also has its moments.

“We went to Myrtle Beach and took a couple of extra days to enjoy the ocean,” said Graf, adding that she and her husband and daughter also stepped out to explore the restaurant scene in Savannah.

But Schnitzels Giggles will be back in New Hampshire on Saturday to join the rest of the trucks at Rockingham Park.

The New Hampshire Food Truck Festival opens at 11 a.m. and runs through 4 p.m., rain or shine. Food will be sold with tickets that work the same way as tickets for carnival rides. Each ticket is $1, and they are sold in books of 10.Aigner suggests wearing a little sunscreen and comfortable shoes because there may be lines at the trucks.

“I’m actually appalled by lines, but that’s the nature of the Food Truck Festival,” said Aigner. “For people who like to eat, the wait will be well worth it.”

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Barbara Taormina may be reached at btaormina@newstote.com.

Off the Grid coming to Telegraph Avenue

A new weekly gourmet food truck market is set to open in South Berkeley in July.

The popular street food vending organization Off the Grid has 18 weekly markets in the greater Bay Area, and its latest addition, Off the Grid: Southside Berkeley on Telegraph, will take place Thursdays near the intersection of Telegraph Avenue and Haste Street.

Created by Matt Cohen in 2010, Off the Grid utilizes space that is unused in the daytime and strives to provide opportunities for local businesses while offering communities a convenient and pleasant way to connect through a shared food experience.

The Berkeley opening will take advantage of unoccupied space in the aforementioned intersection. Two corners of the intersection are vacant due to devastating fires that took place in 1990 and 2011. Another corner has been unused since 2006.

According to Cohen, the company only works “with small chef-driven businesses.” There is currently an Off the Grid market in the Gourmet Ghetto in North Berkeley that features businesses such as Liba Falafel and Streatery. Local businesses that have signed up to participate in the new Berkeley location include El Sur Empanada and Old World Food Truck. Cohen said that 8 to 10 trucks will participate in the weekly events.

The event will run from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. during the summer and from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. during the winter.

Cohen said that Telegraph is a good fit for his organization “because of both the proximity to campus and the proximity to the Elmwood and Rockridge areas. We’re also glad to help in reactivating a historic intersection of Berkeley following the fire that profoundly affected the district last winter.”

Roland Peterson, executive director of Telegraph Business Improvement District, said he hopes the success that Off the Grid has experienced in North Berkeley will be replicated on Telegraph, as “this is the part of Telegraph that could really use a boost.”

“The event is creating buzz and interest, as it provides another dining alternative for people who want something fun and inexpensive to eat for dinner,” Peterson said.

The opening of Off the Grid: Southside Berkeley on Telegraph is expected to rein in a positive effect on local businesses. Berkeley City Councilmember Kriss Worthington said the intersection at Telegraph and Haste is in a crisis.

“For years one corner has been blighted, and last year’s fire ruined another major intersection,” Worthington said. “Now, the residents are gone, businesses are gone. Bringing life and activity to that intersection is really vital.”

Worthington said he recognized that there are minimal inconveniences to this opening such as an increase in noise level, frequency of cleanups and parking concerns.

However, Peterson said Telegraph will remain open with only a section of Haste closed off, and Worthington said “the city has come up with conditions as a part of permitting this opening that will make sure that the events are 99.9 percent positive.”

Local businesses have expressed their support for additional activity in this intersection. Gene Barone, manager of Moe’s Books, said that he hopes the company does “enough publicity to make it successful, but generally we are extremely excited about this opportunity.”

“Anything that would bring some activity to that corner would be really helpful,” said Marc Weinstein, one of the owners of Amoeba Music in Berkeley. “We’ve been living in a post-apocalyptic state as the only building standing on that corner, and we feel that the least the city could do would be to support the opening, though that will certainly not solve all of our problems.”

Food truck owners face potential increase in laws and fees

Street Food vendors may see some additional laws and fees tacked onto their businesses after Monday night’s Bozeman City Commission meeting.

Some of the issues sure to come up are where these food trucks are allowed to park, how far away they need to be from restaurants and schools, noise levels, outdoor seating, and hours of operation.

Jay Blaske, owner of the Tumbleweeds Gourmet food truck, along with 16 other people interested in mobile food vending formed a working group and have met five times to compile a list of recommendations to present to the City Commission.

“I think that there’s enough business for all of us. I think that we’re going to in the end draw more business to downtown, so instead of looking at the issue as we’re taking a percentage of what’s already there, look at it as we’re all going to get a percentage of a bigger amount of business,” said Blaske.

He also tells us the group welcomes the idea of additional taxes and fees, but they want to compromise with the City Commission on some of the other issues.

Planning commissioners question new Oxnard food truck regulations

Oxnard’s proposed new regulations for food trucks ran into a temporary roadblock Thursday night when the Planning Commission decided to continue working on them for another two months.

All the commissioners had issues with a food truck ordinance written by city planners, so they voted 7-0 to table the matter until Aug. 16.

The new rules won’t affect the city’s First Thursdays Gourmet Food Trucks, a popular event where food trucks from all over Southern California gather downtown for a community dining fest. Instead, the city is targeting food trucks that lease space on private property and regularly operate from one location.

Like brick-and-mortar restaurants, food trucks must have permits from the county Environmental Health Division that cover food safety, as well as business licenses and zoning clearances from the city. In Oxnard, the zoning code does not cover food trucks on private property. After the trucks started to pop up all over town a few years ago, city planners started working on a new ordinance.

The proposal before the Planning Commission would have allowed food trucks in most commercial and industrial zones, but not residential areas. Trucks could not be within 500 feet of homes, 500 feet of another licensed truck, or 900 feet of schools, day care centers and parks. They would have to have access to parking and restrooms, typically through a written agreement with a nearby business.

Hours would be restricted to no more than six hours per day, between 7 a.m. and 10 p.m., and trucks could operate only six days a week.

Because the city still would regard them as “temporary uses,” the trucks could only stay in one place for 45 days. They would then have to get a new permit for a different location, though they could return to the first spot after 30 days.

Planning Commissioners all said they would like the permits to last longer than 45 days. Some mentioned 180 days as a better policy. A few commissioners also said food trucks should be allowed to operate later than 10 p.m., especially those in downtown, near bars and nightclubs.

“A food truck can cost over $50,000,” Commissioner Saul Medina said. “If someone is willing to invest that amount of money and effort, then should we tell them they would only have a 45-day window in one location, and once they’re established, they’ll be asked to move?”

Whatever the commission decides, it will be only a recommendation to the City Council, which has the final authority on new regulations.

Gourmet food truck movement keeps rolling

By Scott Gargan

Christophe Ensenat ladled a helping of batter onto a round stove top, spreading the thin, creamy liquid over the cooking surface before topping it with brie goat cheese, fresh roasted vegetables and warm maple syrup.

After letting it crisp for a couple minutes, Ensenat folded the golden brown treat in half, dropped it onto a paper plate and served it to a hungry patron waiting just outside the service window of his bright yellow food truck.

“These are all fresh ingredients,” said Ensenat, owner of Christophe’s Crepes, which he parks outside the Fairfield Library on weekdays from noon to 2 p.m. “I like to cook, and I want the customers to like what I cook.”

A native of Lyon, France, Ensenat has been making crepes for family, friends and restaurants since he was young. He could’ve opened a French bistro, or maybe a to-go joint, but the benefits of a mobile business — low overhead, the ability to move around and a singular focus on food — inspired Ensenat to get his show on the road.

“It’s a unique idea,” he said. “People like it.”

Christophe’s Crepes is one of the latest additions to the growing gourmet food truck scene — a trend driven by a desire for cost savings among patrons who still want to enjoy, and proprietors who still want to serve, quality food.

Far from a dirty water dog or roadside bagel, gourmet food trucks serve up chic eats, from lobster rolls and souvlaki wraps to cupcakes and crepes. And because operating costs are low, prices tend to be, too.

Mobile purveyors are nothing new, of course; ice cream, hot dog and pretzel carts have been a ubiquitous presence in major American cities for decades. But as the economy continues to sputter, more and more entrepreneurs are opting for a set of wheels, rather than a stationary locale, according to Linda Kavanagh, director of the New England Culinary Group.

“What chefs have done is cut out everything that’s unpleasant about the food business and put the rest into truck,” she said. “It’s a reaction to the economic situation, and it’s working well.”

When Ensenat decided to open a business last year, he wanted to sell crepes, but he “didn’t know how Americans would respond to them.” So, to minimize investment risk, he opened a truck. The crepes — Ensenat serves four kinds of “savory” crepes, nine versions of “sweet” crepes and five types of Belgian waffles — have taken off.

“People have started to be receptive,” said Ensenat, who has since expanded his business to cater graduation, breakfast and wedding parties.

In Stamford, people are flocking to Melt Mobile, a gourmet grilled cheese truck operated by local residents Darlene Andersen and Diana Hall. The business, which is set to be featured in a July 20 episode of the Food Network program, “3 Days to Open with Bobby Flay,” serves a classic comfort food with a creative twist (a popular favorite is Meatball 3 Cheese Squeeze, made with meatballs in marinara, fresh mozzarella, pecorino romano, parmigiano reggiano and basil on Tuscan bread).

“Grilled cheese is a childhood favorite, but we can make it more sophisticated for adults,” said Andersen, who parks the truck near Landmark Square on Atlantic Street Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. “The response has been absolutely awesome.”

Many mobile purveyors have experienced sizzling popularity, causing them to outgrown a single truck. When John and Lorraine Murphy opened Bettie’s Cakes in New York’s Capitol Region in 2009, they operated out of a pink vintage double decker bus. Since then, they have added two more mobile cupcake busses in addition to three stationary locations, including a cafe in Saratoga Springs, N.Y.

The menu features Red Velvet, Peanut Butter Cup and Shirley Temple cupcakes, among other mini indulgences.

“Cupcakes are a huge trend,” Lorraine Murphy said. “It’s a bite sized piece of heaven.”

While there are many cost-related advantages to running a mobile business, food truck owners also speak of developing close relationships with their customers.

For Ensenat, there’s nothing quite like popping his head out of his bright yellow food truck, and “seeing the customer right there, enjoying my food.”

scott.gargan@scni.com; 203-964-2238; http://twitter.com/scottgarg

Food trucks still face hurdles at city hall

Mehran Agha Bermah represents the old school street food - hot dogs sold from a cart. Food trucks, whose popularity has exploded in cities across North America, could vastly expand the number and variety of street food offerings, provided the city decides how and when they can legally park on city streets. Mehran Agha Bermah represents the old school street food - hot dogs sold from a cart. Food trucks, whose popularity has exploded in cities across North America, could vastly expand the number and variety of street food offerings, provided the city decides how and when they can legally park on city streets.

Mehran Agha Bermah represents the old school street food – hot dogs sold from a cart. Food trucks, whose popularity has exploded in cities across North America, could vastly expand the number and variety of street food offerings, provided the city decides how and when they can legally park on city streets.

KEITH BEATY/TORONTO STAR

As Toronto ponders adding fruits and vegetables to the menu of street food carts, a proposal to expand gourmet food trucks is stuck in neutral.

Councillor Adam Vaughan wants to allow food trucks to set up in commercial downtown parking lots, but city council referred his request back to executive committee, which 10 days ago sent it back to staff.

Food trucks are exploding in popularity across North America. Councillor Peter Milczyn said if Toronto followed that path, it would be a far bolder move than simply expanding the food cart menu to include fruits and vegetables, salads, bagels, nuts, soups, veggie burgers and coffee and tea.

While the city has tight rules on what items can be sold from street carts, Mayor Rob Ford said he’d like to open it up. “Let them sell what they want,” Ford said Friday in a media scrum. “I wouldn’t restrict it just to hot dogs and hamburgers.”

Milczyn sees no problem coming up with more places for Toronto food trucks to operate.

“Whether trucks are parked in a parking lot or cruising the streets, I’d like to see better and more interesting street food,” he said. “Other cities have it. It’s really gourmet food out of a truck. It’s fabulous, and we should be able to have more of that here.”

So why did Ford and his council supporters send the issue back to staff for more study?

One reason is that food trucks — with their fancy offerings — would represent more competition for restaurants, said Councillor Giorgio Mammoliti. Fearing complaints, Mammoliti is leery about approving more spots in addition to the 137 current street-food vending permits.

“Once you start creating new vending areas, that’s where you’re going to get problems with complaints. You’re creating new spots which will probably be closer to existing taxpaying restaurants.”

Milczyn said council doesn’t block new brick-and-mortar restaurants from competing with existing players, and the same should be true for food trucks. “We don’t put restrictions on how many restaurants can be in one block. This should be no different.”

Mammoliti disagreed.

“We need to remember that there are property-tax payers out there. As far as I’m concerned, we have to respect the property-tax payer. In my opinion, they do come first, before the vendors.”

When council punted the food truck issue back to executive committee, that committee asked staff to see whether zoning amendments might be required.

Milczyn, who chairs the planning and growth management committee, said he’s unaware of any major zoning obstacles. However, he said his committee might play a role in setting rules for parking lot food trucks. For instance: could they have patios, decks, umbrellas?

“Councillor Vaughan just wants to let it happen, but the issue for me would be: Do we want to put in some standards around how this would look?” Milczyn said.

“Maybe the answer is no, but before we give carte blanche, let’s give it some thought. Maybe a better answer is we do a one-year pilot project and say there are no rules. And see what happens.”

The executive committee directed that the issue be included in an ongoing review by the city’s Street Food Vending Working Group, made up of city staff, food vendors and merchants.

Downtown Councillor Kristyn Wong-Tam, who seconded Vaughan’s food truck motion, said there might have to be rules governing how close a truck could be to a standing restaurant.

Wong-Tam (Ward 27, Toronto Centre-Rosedale) noted that the working group originally was to report late last year and is now aiming for November.

“Councillor Vaughan and I are very keen to see changes take place,” she said. “What we don’t want is the conversation to drag on forever, and we do want some concrete solutions and recommendations from staff.”